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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.